Overview
Spiti means "middle land" -- the land between India and Tibet. While Lahaul is more habituated with villages along the way and roads in good shape (mostly metalled) and some places gravel, Spiti is a vastly different beast -- less habitation, one of the most difficult terrains, harsh climate, no cell phone connectivity and the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere (no immediate relief visible on the way forward or backward) which acts as a determinant for the mettle to push oneself beyond physical limits to power-through the terrain and acquire the satisfaction of being able to traverse one of the highest motor-able lands in the world.
For more information: http://hplahaulspiti.nic.in/Spiti.htm
The Trip
As a precursor, most enthusiasts choose the route: Manali - Kaza - Tabo - Nako - Chitkul - Manali or rather many return the same route from Kaza covering the Spiti valley twice. However, having heard stories of people returning halfway from the Spiti valley due to the terrain, we wanted to accomplish the entire circle and hence, chose the opposite route than most -- Lahaul first and then Spiti valley.
After much efforts in coordinating among interested individuals, we ended up with 3 enthusiasts at the ISBT, Kashmere Gate on 4th Sept evening to board the bus for Manali.
Spiti means "middle land" -- the land between India and Tibet. While Lahaul is more habituated with villages along the way and roads in good shape (mostly metalled) and some places gravel, Spiti is a vastly different beast -- less habitation, one of the most difficult terrains, harsh climate, no cell phone connectivity and the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere (no immediate relief visible on the way forward or backward) which acts as a determinant for the mettle to push oneself beyond physical limits to power-through the terrain and acquire the satisfaction of being able to traverse one of the highest motor-able lands in the world.
For more information: http://hplahaulspiti.nic.in/Spiti.htm
The Trip
As a precursor, most enthusiasts choose the route: Manali - Kaza - Tabo - Nako - Chitkul - Manali or rather many return the same route from Kaza covering the Spiti valley twice. However, having heard stories of people returning halfway from the Spiti valley due to the terrain, we wanted to accomplish the entire circle and hence, chose the opposite route than most -- Lahaul first and then Spiti valley.
After much efforts in coordinating among interested individuals, we ended up with 3 enthusiasts at the ISBT, Kashmere Gate on 4th Sept evening to board the bus for Manali.
Day
1: We arrived in Manali around 10 AM and after
freshening up, we went on the hunt for bike rentals. Based on comfort and
desire for a particular bike, we settled on 2 avengers (220 cc, oil cooled) and Royal Enfield Bullet 350cc. Purchasing essentials to start the journey, we ultimately left
Manali around 1 PM. Our initial start was filled with excitement, energy and
zeal to drive bikes (we were on bikes after ages). We stopped at Bhuntar for a
late lunch. We made the stop for the day at Shoja.
Highlights
for the day: The roads were metalled and the drive
was very pleasant alongside the Beas river. The metalled road continued till
Jibhi. The last stretch of 5 km from Jibhi to Shoja was unmetalled gravel road
and the after-dark driving added to our discomfort leading us to think that
this was the worst kind of drive we could face.
Distance: 108 km
Altitude: Manali - 2050 meters, Shoja - 2590 meters
Altitude: Manali - 2050 meters, Shoja - 2590 meters
Day
2: We started from Shoja around 9:30 AM (yes, we
had very lazy starts – discipline of getting out early was non-existent). After
Naggar, near a village named Jalori, the highway was closed and hence, we had
to take a detour into the wilderness to cover the distance till we got back
onto the main highway near Nagan. We took lunch somewhere around Luan and
Bithal. After a quick shut eye, we were on the road by 3:30 PM and made an early
stop at Rampur at 5:30 PM. Other than the detour, the rest of the road was good
for driving.
Highlights
for the day: The off-road from Jalori till Nagan
was a challenging terrain to say the least. Unmetalled, gravel road, steep
inclines and muddy as well as stony roads at most places leading to a speed
more than 5-10 kmph impossible. One avenger got stuck in the mud in this course
while the bullet tasted dirt twice requiring help from nearby people to be
helped up. The positive to this route was we got some tasty apples plucked from
the trees directly as a gift from the locals. A mad-man from a local general
store suggested that going forward, you can hit a speed of 100 kmph for the
remaining stretch (!!!).
Distance: 120 Km
Altitude: Rampur - 1350 meters
Altitude: Rampur - 1350 meters
Day 3:
We started at 8:30 AM with the target to reach
Kalpa by sun-down. Gorging in the sights of power plants from Rampur to Jhakri
and many more, we sped off in good spirit to break bread at Sangla. The roads
had turned into gravel and sandy roads for most part. We made good progress and
were 40 km off Sangla by 12 noon near Tapri. However, the remaining stretch
took us surprisingly much time to cover and we stopped for lunch around 3 PM at
Sangla. We explored the valley as well as the Kamru Fort. Putting our helmets
back on, we started for Kalpa and reached Reckong Peo before sunset. However,
due to some wrong information, we had to do a 3 km to and fro due to which we
stayed at Reckong Peo and ditched the plan for Kalpa (further 10 km up).
Highlights
for the day: There are no decent places to stay
before Reckong Peo/Kalpa for at least 50 kms. A sun glass was lost in this
razzle.
Distance: 140 Km
Altitude: Sangla - 2700 meters, Reckong Peo - 2290 meters
Altitude: Sangla - 2700 meters, Reckong Peo - 2290 meters
Day 4:
We started at 8 AM with gusto and our target was
lunch at Nako and stay at Tabo. The road was gravelled till Akpa (16 km from
Reckong Peo) which substantially slows the speed and break the physical being
on a bike. Army territory starts after Akpa which means good metalled road
which carried us at good speed to Nako. After lunch at Nako, we were able to
reach Tabo by 7 PM.
Highlights
for the day: The road to Nako as well as the scenic
beauty during the climb is exceptional. Nako lake is beautiful. The village has
decent supplies of regular items such as handkerchiefs, water, glasses etc.
Distance: 160 Km
Altitude: Nako - 3662 meters, Tabo - 3050 meters
Distance: 160 Km
Altitude: Nako - 3662 meters, Tabo - 3050 meters
Day 5:
We started from Tabo at 11 AM and reached Kaza by
1:30 without much discomfort since the roads are reasonably good. After lunch
at Kaza, we needed welding on the carrier (Only Kaza has this service since we
had been looking for welding shop for a while). We ended the day at Kibber in
the evening and stayed the night. We made a detour to visit Dhankar village as
well and paid our homage to the centuries old monastery at Dhankar.
Distance: 80 Km
Altitude: Dhankar - 3894 meters, Kaza - 3600 meters
Altitude: Dhankar - 3894 meters, Kaza - 3600 meters
Day 6:
We started at 8:30 with a tall order to decide
whether we make the run for Manali or not at Losar. From Kibber, we made a stop
at Key to explore the most revered monastery where a documentary was also being
shot on the life of Dalai Lama (we met a few look-alikes of Dalai Lama). The
road continued to be gravel and dirt road till Losar where we stopped for lunch
at 12:30 PM. At 1:30 PM, we entered into the rally territory of 80 km till
Gramphu which is termed as the toughest terrain. We slippery, rounded stones
making the roads uncomfortable throughout, the route was spotted with deceivingly
slippery black sand, freezing water crossing the roads multiple times (which
led to us wearing wet socks and shoes for most of the distance). The most
challenging stretch was between Batal to Chhatru however, the remaining was not
easy by any means. The bullet fell a couple of times more on the rounded stones
while the avenger suffered a big dent in the gearbox which rendered gear
changing in itself a challenge. Not counting the innumerable hits on the
silencers, we covered the stretch till Gramphu without any significant stops
for breath by sunset (7 PM). Stay options are only available at Batal and
Chhatru in this route. We should have made the stop at Chhatru (at 5:30 PM) but
we decided for a run on Manali. We traversed Rohtang Pass in the depths of night,
and due to lack of petrol, rolled bikes for much of the distance thenceforth,
till Marhi. Bought some petrol in black at Marhi, had some tea and covered the
remaining 34 km to Manali by 10:30 PM.
Distance: 230 km
Altitude: Kunzum Pass - 4590 meters, Gramphu - 3650 meters, Rohtang Pass: 3979 meters
Altitude: Kunzum Pass - 4590 meters, Gramphu - 3650 meters, Rohtang Pass: 3979 meters






